Official Luthiers Forum!

Hi Gang,
I'm getting ready to use my Dremel tool for routing a channel for binding!!!
My tool does not have a gauge to tell you how fast it is turning. I am using a Stewmac routing base set for the first time and am a bit scared about using it. I'm routing EIR.
How fast should I set the speed..? Wide open to the floor?
Any suggestions with it's use will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Walter

That will depend on the bit. test on scrap. The IRW will not be the issue. The spruce top ,cedar, redwood will be the one that chips out on you if you have trouble. I would recommend that you eventually get or build a router jig. like Don's and use a laminate router trimmer. Speed kills but more HP is better.

the smaller the bit you use the faster you can go, as the dremels limited power will cause a larger bit to drag. as michael said, you definitely want to test your bit/speed combination on some scrap. are you using one of the 1/4" solid carbide downcut spirals?

remember to route downhill. imagine the guitar on edge and start your cuts at the peaks of the bouts going down into the waist or down to the heel/neck block or end/tail block. this will minimize the tendency to tear out as you will be going away from the end grain rather than into it.

Walter,
I hope I'm not too late...Don't, Don't use a Dremel for binding chanels! I know a lot of people may have had success but the price of a half way decent lam trimmer will save you much grief! I too had SM's attachment and used to spend hours cleaning/straightening/fixing/re-cutting and yes swearing. A lam trimmer will do a much better job, cleaner, neater, more uniform. I lost my SM attachment and hope I never find it ( I think an alligator ate it). I currently use Mark Ketts system but that is another story. Don't use the Dremel. If you must use a Grammil and scribe the channel first.

_________________
Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"

[QUOTE=Dave-SKG] Walter,
I hope I'm not too late...Don't, Don't use a Dremel for binding chanels! I know a lot of people may have had success but the price of a half way decent lam trimmer will save you much grief! I too had SM's attachment and used to spend hours cleaning/straightening/fixing/re-cutting and yes swearing. A lam trimmer will do a much better job, cleaner, neater, more uniform. I lost my SM attachment and hope I never find it ( I think an alligator ate it). I currently use Mark Ketts system but that is another story. Don't use the Dremel. If you must use a Grammil and scribe the channel first. [/QUOTE]


I concur... I thought this was a trick question when I read the title.... seriously, been there, done that... you want to use a lam trimmer... and if you can swing a bit with the bearing guides, even better.

Brock Poling38484.847025463

_________________
Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Hi Dave,
STOP ALL ENGINES!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well you're not too late. I haven't used it yet.
Boy! Do I feel stupid...
My daughter bought the router set up with
the bit that comes with the kit.
Somehow i didn't feel comfortable with this gizmo.
I have had NO experience with a router before, which makes me feel really insecure.
I can just see my guitar all ripped up to.........!
Well since I don't have the money to buy a fancy rich man's set up and router, this puts my guitar on hold again.
Thanks for all your advice.
Walter

despite what has been said above an awful lot of guitars have had their binding ledges cut with a dremel. you have to take it slow and do shallow cuts. but you do need a depth guide for your router base. is it the ideal tool, no; but it can do the job if you use care and common sense.

that being said it does not take big bucks to go the trimmer/jig route. scrap plywood, a $15 set of drawer slides, a $7 lazy susan bearing, a bit of scrap hardwood, a $20 trimmer and a $15 downcut spiral will let you make one of the binding routing jigs in the jigs segment of the forum.

the job can be done with a knife and a chisel. after all that's what was used for hundreds of years before electric power tools became available.

don't despair.

You're right CM but I think Walter wants it to look nice when he's done. Otherwise he could cut that channel with a chain saw too ...I think I saw Harry Fleishman do that once...No... that was how the guitar looked after the router bit came loose in Harry's jig and then ripped across poor Rick's guitar top! Poor Rick... I felt so bad I was almost in tears! I realy felt partially responsible since I had used the the jig just moments before...MY POINT?...even the safest methods can go a-stray...check everything, go slow, wear safety equipment...HAVE FUN!

_________________
Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"

Thank you for the SOUND advice!!!
I'll give it a try...when I get my courage up with a little practice.
I appreciate your help.
Walter

i don't think torres had a lam trimmer and he didn't too bada job!!!

THANKS MICHAEL FOR YOUR ENCOURAGEMENT!
walter

after you've done a bit of practice cutting let me know how it goes and if you are having any problems. but remember that with the dremel the cuts have to be very light else it will stall, grab, tear etc.

Michael...Your right about that. The first time I tried it out on a 1x6 pine wood I had the bit set too deep and it almost jerked out of my hand. The pinewood ddidn't look to cool either.
You hsve given me new Hope!...You definitely have been there by your good advice.
Thanks Brother,
Walter

My grand father taught me to never make a cut more than 1/4 the bit dia. Exception is slot cutting then apply the quarter to the plunge depth of cut. As he would put it "A router is not a cope saw". He said it is "better to sneak up on a sleeping alligator than to bit the tail of crocodile." dont worry, I did not get it either for a long time.

Thanks Michael for the support. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Walter

This thread suggests a very good explanation for why I've had trouble with binding channels in the past: too much depth of cut.

I'll have to test this theory